Build Log: Grizzly 400 "Modplunge", AA 1/4 Chiller setup.

wintermute

Ecupirate Yes, I used regular 3/4" PVC pipe.

wintermute

My bulkhead was positioned ~10" down from the top of the cooler. It could be positioned higher or lower if desired depending on if you want it above or below the water line. Don't forget that when you get in the cooler the water level will rise up.

alman111

I am mirroring this build (thx!), and am having trouble figuring out both what these fittings are for, and where to find them to buy. Are you able to provide links by any chance?

3/4 MPT x 3/4 MPT OR 3/4 MPT x 3/4 Slip (bulkhead to union)
1 x 3/4 FPT Union

wintermute

alman111

3/4 MPT x 3/4 MPT OR 3/4 MPT x 3/4 Slip (bulkhead to union)
- This is the connection from the bulkhead outside the tub to a union. I actually forgot to buy this online and picked it up at local hardware store. I added product links to the original post.
1 x 3/4 FPT Union
- This is just a female threaded union as opposed to a slip fit union. This connects to the nipple above. I changed out the other side of the union to be slip fit. You can do this easily by buying an extra 3/4 slip fit union. The fewer threaded connections the better.

CoMac

are you using pvc glue and primer in the slip fittings from the unions to the flex pipe as well?

wintermute

CoMac Yes, the flex tubing is glued directly to the PVC fittings. When you apply the glue and push the tubing into the PVC fitting do not twist the tubing or fitting at all.

ModGriz

wintermute do you have a

wintermute do you have a link for the custom bulkhead fitting you ordered?

Thanks!

wintermute

ModGriz This thread has 2 options: https://forum.opensourcecoldplunge.com/d/9-grizzly-400-cooler-bulkhead-fitting

Make sure you use an appropriate silicon sealant on both sides of the rubber gasket and let it cure.

Warthog-79

wintermute What silicone sealant did you use? Defiantly want to get this right the first time! BTW, thanks for this review and sharing. It has been most helpful. I am going 1" on everything because I have an Eco Plus commercial chiller.

wintermute

Sanitation update: I was able to go 2 months just fine maintaining 100ppm H202. I wouldn't push it much longer without replacing the water. This is better than expected!

wintermute

If you haven't read the H202 sanitation thread one important lesson learned is that when you test the H202 levels in your plunge with a test strip make sure to take a small sample in a clean container and let it come up to room temperature before dipping the test strip in. I would recommend using 0-100 ppm AND 100-400 ppm (Or similiar) test strips to give you a more accurate picture of your actual levels. Let me know your experiences.

kealyv

Why the bulkhead on side (not center backside)? Do you drain the cooler from the bulkhead/supply? Should the water supply be under water level or top of water (or does it matter)? Does the filter in front of pump reduce flow (could I do return - pump- chiller- then filter? I see all these ink birds, why didn't you use?

wintermute

kealyv bulkhead placement is mostly personal preference and can be above or below the water line. The return should be at the bottom of the tank. If you put filter before the pump you will probably need another pump to prime the main pump system. I wouldn't recommend it. I have no need for an ink bird type device, system runs 24/7.

kealyv

wintermute What about filter after the chiller? like return to pump to chiller to filter?

And is adding the inkbird after this setup doable? only to reduce run time…

wintermute

kealyv If you want to reduce runtime I personally would use a smart plug. You can put the filter after the chiller if you want, it'll work fine. You could install a coarse mesh filter before the pump if you think you'll have larger debris getting in the tub. That's not a problem I have.

kealyv

How far down from the top (or up from the bottom) did you drill the bulk head?

kealyv

Does the Parts list at top of thread include ALL fittings/pipe/material needed? I noticed half way down thread it was mentioned needing "a small segment of 3/4” pipe for all your slip connections" but didn't see it in material list.
Is the 1 3/8" hole saw bit for the McMaster bulkhead (because I noticed you mentioned, "I'm now recommending this bulkhead"- so not sure if the 1 3/8 hole was for one you used or if you did use the McMaster.

I appreciate you posting this and helping a rookie like myself and many others.

wintermute

kealyv Yes you will need a short length of 3/4" PVC pipe and a way to cut it. The McMaster bulkhead requires a 1 5/8" hole. I have updated the post for this info.

wintermute

Warthog-79 I used loctite silicone waterproof sealant. Use something that says it works under water. I'm really interested to see what kind of flow rate you get, make a post when you complete it!

Warthog-79

wintermute My current limiter may be the garden hose return. Trying to find a workaround without installing another bulkhead… I need a 2"NPS to 1" for PVC.. not sure if it exists.

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